Any hope for my old ME E-11?

Some good news for ya', Dave... E-11s are not a requirement for basic approval, only for EI and above. (See bottom of this post). Besides the wire/item on the side it is connected to, the charging handle, end cap itself and perhaps the bolt opening you are actually in pretty good overall shape for level 2!

Resin builds have come quite a long way, and there are replacement parts available that can be 3D printed. Don't worry if you don't actually have a 3D printer, though, there are services online that can to it inexpensively, and many folks here offer the files for free, like this:

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45065-anh-e-11-blaster-files/ If there are any you can't find, just ask.

You can also have them made in cast aluminum, but those are pricier: (I used this eBay seller to replace a ton of parts on my resin build).

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I hope this helps, and here is a thread that should give you some more details/guidance:

FISD Blaster reference guide- https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/

E-11 requirements as needed for EI and Centurion:

• Folding stock (does not need to function).
• A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present.
• D-ring mounted on the rear.
• Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope.
• Two power cylinders on the magazine housing.
• Scratch-built or cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).
• If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side.
  • This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.
• No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster.

• Hasbro and Rubies blasters are not allowed, even conversions.