I’m rarely impressed by “intense” perfume flankers¹. They’re usually like having a song being screamed out of a megaphone - louder, yes, and with the basic tune still there, but stripped of nuance, subtlety or charm. On the other hand, I’m a big fan of Chanel, and find their flankers to range from “welcome little tweak” (as in the pretty Chance Eau Tendre EDP) to “gorgeous new interpretation” (as in the entire N°5 and N°19 lineups).
So when Gabrielle Essence was announced, I dared to hope this wouldn’t be a yelling, flat version of Gabrielle. In fact, it might be a lovely upgrade to the original fragrance’s pretty yet mild character! And, well… I’m happy to announce I was not disappointed!
Review
Gabrielle Essence opens with red fruits. This made me worried at first, as “red berries” have ruined more than a few lovely scents for me. But, to my relief, Chanel kept the accord light and fresh, evoking a basket of recently picked, fresh fruits more than a sugar-loaded compote. Like in the original Gabrielle, this opening takes center stage for a moment, then enters the floral heart.
Gabrielle’s heart of 4 flowers (orange blossom, jasmine, ylang-ylang and tuberose) is criticized by many as generic, but I find it rather lovely. It’s radiant and airy, albeit losing a few points for having an acidic tone. My hopes for Gabrielle Essence was that this little rough edge of the original would be polished, and indeed, that is the case. In Gabrielle Essence, creamy tuberose and buttery ylang-ylang are amped up, giving this fragrance an even smoother, and more defined, character. Alas, with less transparency, a bit of sparkle from the original is also lost.
Finally, Gabrielle Essence gets new notes, like peach, vanilla and coconut. I was expecting to love all these additions, but the coconut surprised me as it goes for a dry and unsweetened take instead of a milky, “sunscreen” one. Recognizing the elegance of natural coconut as I may, this is probably the one thing I’d change on Gabrielle Essence. Added to spicy sandalwood and ylang- ylang, this note makes for a too fuzzy impression that kind of bothers my nose with its raspy texture. It’s not a quality issue, as it doesn’t smell chemical… just personal preference.
On a final note, Gabrielle Essence has better lasting power than Gabrielle, and the bottle + liquid colour are even prettier than the original. Nice!
Fragrance Impressions
Conclusion
Chanel doesn’t disappoint with the quality of this flanker, just as nuanced and even more memorable than the original. The scent itself stays very close to Gabrielle, and I think it would be redundant to own both - unless it’s your signature and you just want a spring/summer vs autumn/winter “texture” switch… as in, mousseline to satin.
So, which version is the best? I almost say Gabrielle Essence, with its stronger character and creamy, smooth florals… yet, in its lightness, the original Gabrielle had a sparkly energy that the Essence version doesn’t quite replicate. Yes, the acidic tone is gone, but the fuzzy noise of coconut shows up to take its place and not-ruin-but-take-points from the newer composition.
Given the chance to choose between the two, I think I’d hesitate, so it feels fair that Gabrielle Essence gets the same 3,5 stars as its predecessor. They’re both lovely scents and I recommend both, but… when it comes to fresh, sparkly white florals, this die-hard Chanel fan ultimately goes to Dior J’Adore first.
¹ Absolues, Elixirs, and yes, Essences often applying to the same general concept.
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