Fragrance Review: Gucci – Mémoire d’une Odeur – A Tea-Scented Library

I first encoutered Mémoire d’une Odeur at a department store, not having read its note pyramid or seen the (ugly) ads. From this initial “blind” test, I can say my immediate reactions were:

1. This doesn’t remind me of any fragrance I’ve smelt so far;
2. I have no idea what I’m smelling;
3. I am very intrigued!

Review

Mémoire d’une Odeur was released in 2019, and composed by perfumer Alberto Morillas. As I mentioned, it really surprised me at first spray - it wasn’t floral, nor sweet, spicy, fruity or citric. In fact, all I could describe was musk, a cool powderyness at once clean and musty, and… wax? It was a soft, weird, puzzling scent, so I went to look up the notes, then retest it.

After a couple of retests, and wearing my small sample a few times, I think my nose now better “understands” Mémoire d’une Odeur. This is an unisex fragrance, leaning very slightly feminine. It’s described as herbal-mineral, and indeed, there is something powdery and cold, and spicy-green, about it.

In the opening and heart accords, I mostly get fuzzy-earthy chamomile (quite clear once I’d read the pyramid and knew what to look for), a faint clean jasmine, and inedible almond, opening slightly bitter and giving the fragrance a peculiar waxy texture. The base is very musky, enveloping the other notes in a white cloud, and barely shows its woody notes, except maybe for their dry texture - which makes the final accord smell strangely… dusty? I don’t get vanilla, but there’s a hint of sweetness hiding behind the dominant musk, which I guess might be it.

Mémoire d’une Odeur opens slightly more herbal-bitter and dries down slightly more musky-sweet, but it doesn’t change dramatically. Sillage is soft, and soon becomes close to skin, which makes sense for the subtle style of the scent. The lasting power isn’t very impressive either… on me, it lasts about 4-5 hours before it’s really faint.

Fragrance Impressions

Conclusion

Concept-wise, Mémoire d’une Odeur was supposed to be inspired by memory - which I don’t think works very well, as, to many people (myself included) its unusual scent profile will smell anything but nostalgic. And, while I do give credit to Gucci and Morillas for presenting a creative composition… I’m still not sure if I actually like this fragrance.

I can see why one might find Mémoire d’une Odeur gentle yet full of character, with unique chamomile creating a neutral, calm aura. On the other hand, I also see why one might find this scent musty and “distant”, muted without being fresh. Mémoire d’une Odeur also doesn’t quite smell like a perfume. It’s more like… a smell? Of an old box full of chamomile tea sachets? And candle wax? Wether this impression is good or not… it’s really up to each person’s taste.

I’ll give it points for originality, but Mémoire d’une Odeur isn’t really my cup of tea. When it comes to “neutral, herbal clean” scents, I’d rather go for several other fragrances1, so this won’t be in my wishlist. I do encourage you to give it a try, as this is no generic scent. For its unique character, I’ll give it 3 stars.

1 Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au thé blanc, Elizabeth Arden White Tea, Hermès Un Jardin Sur le Nil…